Sukawadee Sangwansiri - Author of Multicultural Path of Khao SoiKhao Soi is northern Thailand’s most renowned fare. Can it really be more than just a bowl of noodles? What is it that gives this soup spirit? What is the mystery that is hidden in the scent and taste of this hallmark northern Thailand specialty? What is it that makes Khao Soi synonymous with northern Thailand and gives such character to noodle soup?

“If you’ve been to Chiang Mai and you haven’t visited Doi Suthep and tried Khao Soi, you haven’t been to Chiang Mai at all.” This Northern saying has been applied to generations of visitors to the ‘Rose of the North’, native Thai and foreigner alike. It may be easy to ignore these words of folk wisdom but surely, as you read them, the curiosity of the adventurer in you has been challenged.

For those that are not aware, Doi Suthep is the mountain bordering the west edge of Chiang Mai, the capital of northern Thailand. Doi Suthep is also the location of Thailand’s most famous temple, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep.

Khao Soi - Northern Thai Noodle in Chicken Curry

Khao Soi?? Well, Khao Soi is a northern Thai noodle dish… what could it be that elevates a mere bowl of noodle soup to the level of a spiritual experience; climbing the ancient steps and walking the halls of Chiang Mai’s sacred mountain temple? What is it that gives this soup spirit? What is the mystery that is hidden in the scent and taste of this hallmark northern Thailand cuisine? What is it that makes Khao Soi synonymous with northern Thailand and gives such character to a bowl of noodle soup?

This, dear visitor from lands near or far, is an invitation to dine with us… an invitation to explore and to follow the multicultural path of Khao Soi.

Let’s begin with the words themselves: Khao literally means “rice” and Soi translates as “chop”; therefore, a combination of these two words draws the image of “chopped rice”. However, that is not the whole story. The word Khao Soi is actually derived from how the egg noodles were made in the past. There was no noodle shredder, so people would simply mix rice flour, eggs, salt, and water together. They would roll that mixed dough into a thin sheet and cut it into pieces that were flat and thin, very similar to today’s Khao Soi noodles.

What really distinguishes the egg noodles in Khao Soi from other kinds of noodles is their soft, sticky texture. The secret of this unique quality lies in their composition and preparation, which has not changed in centuries. After they have been freshly boiled, the noodles will be put in cold water right away in order to help preserve their delicacy. The cooled noodles are then put in a bowl containing a small amount of thick coconut cream; then stir-fried chili powder and black soybean sauce are added. At this point, the whole process becomes personal choice, leaving the cook to choose between chicken, pork, and beef. When the decision is made and the meat is added, a portion of hot curry broth is poured over the noodles, just enough to cover half of the noodles – and that’s it. Or is it?

Cooking Khao Soi - Preparing Side Vegetables

Some may try to say Khao Soi is simply egg noodles with curry… I happen to disagree. Apart from its sheer delicacy and fantastic flavors, what makes Khao Soi so much more than just Chiang Mai’s most popular dish is its multi-cultural heritage. Khao Soi has followed a long and winding path through history; the path of the people who originally invented the dish and then eventually brought it to Thailand.

Though it is considered a regional specialty of northern Thailand, the origin of Khao Soi lies elsewhere. In fact, the dish has had a very long and complex history taking it from Mongolia to China, through Burma and Laos; and Khao Soi was even a favorite dish of the legendary emperor Genghis Khan. The origins of Khao Soi have been traced back centuries to a group of Chinese hill farmers who lived in scattered precincts of China including Yunnan, Ching Hai, and Kansu. Those farmers were actually groups of Muslims who had followed the Mongols from Central and West Asia and into China when the Mongols invaded in the 13th century.

When they traveled to China they took their customs with them – and their food. As time went by, these settlers became a part of the local Chinese community, and were named Jeen-Hor, “Chinese hill people”. Their traditional dishes, including what we now know as Khao Soi, were largely retained despite the groups being naturally influenced by the new culture that surrounded them.

The path of Khao Soi continued in 1856 when a massacre of people led the farmers to revolt against the state. However, the rebellion was violently subdued by the Chinese government, and those who survived became refugees. Their flight led them through Burma and Laos until, eventually, they arrived in Thailand. The most prominent migration of Chinese hill people to Chiang Mai was around 1877.

In northern Thailand, the Chinese migrants found new homes and the traditional dish of Khao Soi also found a new home. It is from this fascinating history that a northern Thailand food tradition was born. These days, as you visit Khao Soi restaurants in Chiang Mai and points north, this simple bowl of noodle soup may take on new meaning. Khao Soi is actually a symbol representing centuries of tradition and culture; a culture where food has always played a prominent role.

Khao Soi Served with Chopped Shallot, Lime and Pickled Cabbage

Enough of history… it is time for the real thing. Khao Soi is distinctive due to its colorful appearance and complex taste. Light yellow egg noodles floating in a creamy reddish curry with golden-brown crispy noodles and chopped green parsley on top. Dark green pickled cabbages, little red-pinkish shallots, and a slice of fresh lime come along as a side dish. The diner may add sugar or fish sauce to taste and, almost always, the locals will add some hot chili paste that is specially prepared to accompany Khao Soi. The chili paste can paint the curry in a deep red and make you breathe fire, so it is best to apply a little caution.

The dish creates a beautiful assortment of colors, the characteristic scent of curry and ginger inspires your stomach to rumble with anticipation. When the long-awaited moment of tasting finally arrives, you pick up the spoon ready for your first sip. As the juicy drops fall on your tongue, you suddenly feel the velvety sweet and sour taste of the curry soup fill your mouth, and the tears that well up in your eyes may be either a sign of joy… or maybe that you overdid it with the chili paste.

As you are enjoying this moment of ecstasy, please remember that this taste was brought to us by travelers from ancient times; from Mongolia to China, through SE Asia, and ultimately finding it’s home in northern Thailand. Please enjoy your meal.

Also check out : Khao Soi Recipe and all winning entries of 2008 Thailand Travel Online.com Essay Contest